The fall season means heavy off-shore winds in the southern California region. Long, sustained winds blowing all the way from the hot desert/mountains inland, ripping through the canyons, out to the coast. And when those winds coincide with a swell, that means incredible wave riding. A veritable Surfer’s Paradise.

At least it should. Last year there were none. Sure there were days off-shore winds, but none made that magical mix with a swell to present us with that wonderful gift.

Oh how great it is this season has started off with such gusto! After a horrifically flat summer, thus far Fall has delivered a few sizable, late-season south swells, and a perfect weekend of howling offshore winds. It was as if the Banzai Pipeline came to Newport Beach.

There is truly something special to pulling into a barrel that is being held open by the wind, just inviting you to tuck under and go deep. Or getting rained on behind a wave by the water tearing off the lip.

It’s time to reminisce while we eagerly await the next one…